Alla during Alexander McQueen ss 12
"Sanitarium" Joel-Peter Witkin (1983) // “VOSS” Alexander McQueen (2001)
On June 3, 2004, Alexander McQueen presented a retrospective of his work. Entitled the “Black” show, it was in collaboration with American Express, for whom McQueen had designed a new Black card. Inside a mirrored box (a reference to SS01 “Voss”), the show opened with a spirited dance duet between longtime McQueen icons Kate Moss and Michael Clark. Moss wore a slinky dress made out of the skull pattern that had become eponymous with the McQueen brand since it’s debut in the SS03 “Irere” collection.
To follow were re-workings of archival pieces, all in black. The runway would become a container for the elements— McQueen is famous for his elaborate runway shows where models walked on water, ice-skated, were rained upon, were encircle by fire, and were snowed upon, and in this retrospective show, the water and snow were once again present.
Shown above, the standout pieces include the medieval armor top from SS00 “Eye” (which would later be re-worked yet again, in AW09 “Horn of Plenty”, also a retrospective show), a gauzy black dress worn by Gemma Ward from AW02’s “Supercalifragilistic”, and finally, in an darkly dramatic nod to Christianity, a re-imagining of the finale of his famous SS98 show, “Untitled (The Golden Shower)”.
Alexander McQueen, 2000s
The Horn of Plenty, Alexander McQueen A/W 2009
Photographed by Nick Waplington